VARANASI: Stories in between Varuna and Assi

The Historical Story of Varanasi:

Benares often considered as the Mecca of Hinduism lies on the northern bank of the holy Ganges about 75 miles below its junction with river Yamuna at Allahabad.

Sunset at the Holy Ganges

With about 84 ghats, it has a finest river frontage. It is a picturesque appearance to view Ganges standing on Dufferin Bridge. (Constructed in 1882-87)

Dufferin Bridge

Kashi is generally taken to signify “the shinning”, “the illustrious”. As an etymology for Baranas it has been suggested that it was derived by combining the two words “Barna” and “Assi” the two rivers which from the northern and southern boundaries of the city respectively.

The first definite historical event known about Benares is that the Kasis one of the Aryan tribes which were then occupying North India established themselves in the Ganga valley, near Benares between 1400-1000 BC.

Some accept a dream king kasha as the founder at the city/kingdom but this theory has no historical foundation.

In 7^th century Hiuen Tsang described Benares in his literature.

During 11 & 12^th centuries Benares was included in Kingdom of Kannauj. 

As of the 12^th century, Shahabuddin Ghori sacked Benares and destroyed nearly a thousand temples, establishing Mahommedan government and leaving a governor in charge. 13, 14, 15 and 16^th centuries continued under Mahommedan domination.

In 16^th century under liberal minded Akbar things greatly improved and Benares gained its former power as a centre of Hindu religious life.

Later on after the death of Akbar, Aurangzeb reign was marked with great trouble and humiliation for Hindus of Benares. In 1669, he destroyed an old Bishwanath temple of the Hindus and erected a mosque on it,close to Gyan Bapi--- Alamgir Mosque.

On death of Aurangzeb, Benares had to pass through many vicissitudes.

Eventually, in 1772, it was made over to Saadat Khan the Nawab Wazir of Oudh, who farmed it out to Mir Rustom Ali.

During his time, Manasa Ram, a Gautam Bhuihar Zamindhar of Gangapur, a village some nine miles west of Benares- managed to extend his power and in the end attained the position which belonged to Mir Rustum Ali.

Upon his death, the title of Raja was granted to his son Balwant Singh. Balwanth Singh in 1748 overthrew power of Nawab Nazir and set up as an independent king and established a fort and made Ramnagar his capital.

Entrance of Ramnagar Fort

Ramnagar Fort- On the banks of river Ganga- Tulsi Ghat

Tulsi Ghat- on the bank lies the fort of Raja of Benares

In 1770, on the death of Balwanth Singh, succession difficulties a raised

The legitimate heir was Mahip Narayan Singh the only grandson of Balwant by his only legitimate child a daughter. Another illegitimate son, Cheth Singh by a rajput women was made Raja finally- after a conference b/w the Nawab Shuja-ud-daula and Warren Hastings in 1772 .

In 1781, things turned bad between Chet Singh and Warren Hastings and a revolt occurred. Mahip Narayan Singh the rightful heir was installed as Raja.

In 1791, Wazir Ali had been appointed as Nawab of Oudh but had within a year been deposed on the ground of illegitimacy, profligacy by Governor General Sir John Shore and sent to Benares on the border of his kingdom where he lived in sulky retirement on a large pension.

Wazir Ali immediately commenced to plot against the British power with all the disaffected Muhammadan and Hindu nobles of northern India. Davis a British military officer being in close touch with native society was able to get reliable information of Wazir Ali's proceedings.  

He failed to arouse his chief Governor Cherry about impending danger. He informed the situation to Marquis Wellesley the then Governor General, who ordered that Wazir Ali should be immediately removed to Calcutta.

This was a terrible blow to the ex-nawab and finding it impossible to persuade the Government to revoke these orders, he sent notice to Cherry that he would be ready to start on the 16th January, 1799 and would breakfast with him on the 14th.

At the same time he warned his fellow-conspirators to prepare for immediate action.

When they reached the Residency, Mr. Cherry, still unsuspecting—in spite of repeated warnings received Wazir All with his usual friendliness. On the moment of attack the British cavalry came at rescue and drew off Wazir Ali’s gang.

Wazir All escaped to Nepal. After few defeats he was driven to take refuge at Jaipur. He was then extradited and brought as prisoner to Calcutta. After many years of close confinement in Fort William, he was sent to the State prison at Vellore, where he died.

Except by an occasional riot between low –class Hindus and Muhammadans, some trouble with a native regiment in the days of the Mutiny, Benares has not disturbed the British India since 1799.

From the Hindu point of view, the city has flourished exceedingly under British rule. Its temples and shrines have multiplied, and the strong arm of the law prevented the desecration and destruction which occurred in Muhammadan times.

The railways have largely increased the numbers of pilgrims who throng the ghats and holy places and thus enriched the Brahmin priesthood and the locals.

Mahip Narayan Singh was succeeded by his son Udit Narayan Singh (1795-1835).

Next ruler was Ishwari Prasad Narayan Singh (1835-1889). He remained neutral during Revolt of 1857.

Next ruler was Prabhu Narayan Singh (1889- 1931) He donated 1300acres of land to establish today’s famous Benares Hindu University. In 1911, Bhadohi, Keramnagar, Chakia and Ramnagar together with city of Benares became the newly created princely state of Benares- separated from Kingdom of Oudh.

Next ruler was Aditya Narayan Singh (1932-39; only for near 8yrs). Having no children, he adopted distant cousin to succeed him- Vibhuti Narayan Singh

The reign of Maharaja Vibhuti Narayan Singh acceded to the Dominion of India in 1947 and merged his territories into the United Provinces in 1949, but continued to enjoy a status. After his death, his only son Maharaja Anant Narayan Singh succeeded him.

Royal titles got abolished in 1971, since then a part of Ramnagar fort is converted to a museum called Saraswati Bhavan. 

Saraswati Bhavan- Museum in Ramnagar Fort

Even though the title of Raja is abolished, people of Benares deeply revere the royal family and make them an integral part in every celebration. 

Sadhus on the ghats of holy Ganges